Medicine & markets

Hello everyone!

I'll start off by talking about our trip to a local HIV clinic yesterday. This followed our class discussion on HIV, which was very enlightening for me. I knew that HIV/AIDS is a very serious problem for much of Africa, but I didn't know much else, so it was interesting to learn about the origins of the initial spread of the disease, the various efforts to reduce the spread, and why they have, for the most part, been ineffective. We've learned that HIV prevention is much more effective when it is approached from a local, community standpoint instead of from outside, Western viewpoints. This is partially due to the fact that Westerners often do not understand the differing social structure in Africa vs. the West, and the ways in which HIV is so rapidly spread are not the same as it was spread in the western world. It is also due to the focus on fundraising for treatment after the onset of HIV, rather than the prevention of the spread of the disease in the first place. It was just an eye opening discussion that I think many of us from the West need to know more about. But school lesson aside, our actual trip to the clinic was also very informative.

We met one of the doctors who works there, and he gave us the background of the clinic and answered whatever questions we had. We learned that this particular clinic does testing and counseling, as well as administering of certain medications to help with symptoms. They just don't administer injections of any sort--that is a job for actual hospitals. The clinic can do an initial diagnosis and then advise the patient of what to do next. It is apparently a very reputable establishment; we were told that some patients come all the way from Dar es Salaam (up to a 12 hour drive) to be treated. The clinic also does not charge for its services. It is funded by an Italian donor of some sort; the doctor didn't have very much information on this. 

One of the features of the clinic is that it can provide home-based care to some patients, enabling them to be more comfortable within the boundaries of their own residence while receiving treatment. There was also a biomedical research lab that was a part of the organization, so they are constantly trying to advance treatments for the disease.

The only picture I took that day was of the packed car before leaving the TCDC compound for the clinic, when we were told that there were only two cars available for transport instead of our usual three (even though this ended up not being true and a few of us just had a very roomy car ride):

Today, we went to a secondhand clothing market to see how clothing donations from America and other western countries can impact local African economies. The idea behind this is that "giveaway" programs cause harm to local businesses that need people to buy clothes from them in order to make a living. Many giveaway programs miss the point that the poverty problem for many people does not lie in shoelessness or lack of clothing, it is joblessness. So a lot of clothes donated within the US are sold to middlemen and then to African businessmen for sale in these mitumba markets. They are a huge part of the local economy, and tons of people rely on these markets for much of their clothing. So our assignment for the day was to take 3,000 or 4,000 shillings to the market and buy something with it.

The market--a lot like US flea markets, but mostly composed of clothing--and a lot crazier!

The first thing that caught my eye at the market was none other but a Clemson jacket! This was 1) a kind of exciting moment for me; the last thing I was expecting to see was an emblem from my hometown, and 2) proof that our donated clothing really does travel all around the world! The next thing I spotted was a little backpack with a world map as its design. I decided that this would be my purchase of the day, and went over to the seller to ask how much he wanted for it. His original asking price was 15,000 shillings. After I told him absolutely not, he started lowering the price. I told him that all I had was 4,000 shillings (which really was the truth), and that was all I could pay. It went back and forth between us kind of like this: "15,000." "No." "10,000." "I only have 4,000." "Come on, 7,000. Do 7,000." "I only have 4,000." "6,000, final offer." "Sorry, I really only have 4,000." (At this point I pulled out my money to show him it was all I had) "Okay, 4,000 from you, and your friend adds in 1,000." "I am not making her pay for me!" "Okay, fine." And that was that! I was very proud of myself for sticking it out (not that I had a choice--I REALLY only had 4,000!) and getting what I wanted! I'm finally getting the hang of this bartering thing.

Happy with my purchase!

Tomorrow we have an entire free day! Such a novelty, and I think we're all pretty excited to have a whole day to explore and go shopping and whatever else. Then on Sunday, we leave for our weeklong excursion to Dar es Salaam and Zanzibar, which we cannot wait for!!!

Dr. Prichard's picture of us all with our purchases from the market.

Bye for now!

Lessons in hope and hatred

Our first excursion to an NGO after our safari weekend was to the local primary and secondary school that is under the name St. Jude's (not associated with the St. Jude's organization in the U.S. that many of us are familiar with). The school was started by an Australian woman who originally went to Uganda for three years after her college graduation to volunteer. During these years, she had come to neighboring Tanzania to go on a safari in Ngorongoro National Park, where we were just a few days ago. While on safari, she got to know the driver of the vehicle. As it turns out, they ended up falling in love and he eventually became her husband. After her three years of volunteering, she moved back to Australia in order to raise money for poor Ugandan children to go to school. She was successful at raising the money, but upon return to Uganda and examination of where the funds had been going, she was disappointed to see that there had been much misuse of the money and the children that it was intended to help were not benefitting in the way that she had intended. This caused her to want to open her own school instead, so that she could monitor and control how the funds were spent and the children were affected. This led into the foundation of St. Jude's primary school in Arusha, Tanzania in 2002. 

Students at St. Jude's Primary

Entrance into the school is dependent upon two things: a child's intellectual capability and his or her level of poverty. St. Jude's caters to the poorest of the poor, those who would maybe not be able to attend any school at all were it not for outside funding. The admissions process begins with a test that is administered to children who are just below the entrance age of the primary school. Interested families bring their children by the thousands to take this test when it is administered. We were told that there are over 2000 applicants for the 150 open spots per entering class. If a child is selected based on his or her score on the exam, then a poverty check is undergone to ensure that the family is actually too poor to send their child to school on their own. St. Jude's has a poverty chair who is in charge of visiting homes and questioning the young children about their financial status. Sometimes parents will remove belongings from their homes and instruct their children to not speak of their TVs or refrigerators so that they can appear poor enough to be funded by the school, so this is what the poverty chair is looking out for during these checks. If a child passes both the examination and the poverty check, then they can be admitted to the school and fully funded from the time at which they begin.

The primary school children are all obviously incredibly bright; this was apparent from spending just a few minutes with them. They are all aware of the opportunity with which they have been presented, and they all have high hopes for their futures. Their families also have high hopes for them; they are really the only chance the family has to rise out of poverty. So much rides on the shoulders of these little ones; it is hard to imagine being able to withstand that much pressure, especially at the young age of seven or eight, like so many that I talked to were. But they are all so bright and beautiful, cheerful and filled with hope, that it was impossible not to smile back at them when they looked up at you with open, shining eyes and hearts open even wider.

The secondary campus was also highly impressive. It was not the intention of the founder of St. Jude's to create a secondary school after the initial construction of the primary school. It was only founded in 2008, but it is already such an incredible campus with so many resources available to its students. There are 648 students on the secondary campus, and 98% of them are completely funded. Over 80% of the total funding for the secondary campus comes from an American family, Smith, which the campus now bears the name of. There are many wonderful facilities that cater to the students with the intention of sending them to college once they complete their education here, including computer labs, a library, music and art rooms, and science labs. It is such an impressive organization; I think we were all fairly blown away by its operations. Since the secondary campus is so new, there has not even been a graduating class yet. It is yet to be seen how these kids will fare in terms of going to college after graduation, but the hope is that they will want to stay in Tanzania to pursue a higher education and then a career. As with the primary school children, these kids all have high hopes for their futures, as well. It is encouraging to see them so excited about where they might be headed, and I am sure that each and every one of them will be able to positively contribute to the betterment of their families, their communities, and Tanzania as a whole.

The faces of Tanzania's future 

So that was Monday. Tuesday was an absolute nothing day for me because I woke up sick and stayed that way for the duration of the day. So that was no fun, but luckily this was the one day that we didn't have an excursion in the afternoon, so I was able to sleep it off, and I woke up Wednesday morning back to normal!

My sickness had good timing, because Wednesday morning, we all headed to the UN International Criminal Tribune for the Rwandan Genocide, in Arusha. After the absolute horrors of the 1994 Rwandan genocide, court proceedings for those ultimately responsible for instigating and ordering the mass murders were chosen to take place in Arusha. Most of the trials have already taken place; out of the 83 arrests made, the only court proceedings that remain are appeals. The ICTR proceedings are actually slated to be completely closed in mid-2014. There are nine remaining people who have been indicted but are still on the run, but if they are found, they will be tried by the Rwandan government, not the UN. 

The ICTR is special because before this, the UN had no experience in judicial matters. It also expanded the definition of genocide to include rape and other acts that were carried out with the intention of destroying a specific group of people (in this case, the Tutsi). And as in Nuremberg after the Holocaust, the ICTR dealt with prosecuting the superior officers and other government officials who perhaps incited the massive amounts of violence, even though they may not have murdered anybody firsthand (these cases would be left to the Rwandan government). 

While at the UN compound, we watched a documentary over the ICTR proceedings and listened to a UN employee's explanation of how ICTR has operated over its lifespan. It was obviously very difficult to talk about the extreme scale at which these murders occurred (over 800,000 during a 100 day period), but it was also a very insightful view into the process of international law. We were able to walk through the actual court room in which so many people were tried and found guilty; it was a unique experience to be in the same room as where so much history had been made and so many terrible people had been brought to justice with the fullest extent of the law (which we all know will never make up for the atrocities that they committed). It was a sobering trip, but still yet another one that we were lucky to experience.

Waiting in a UN conference room for one of the employees who came to talk to us

UN visitor's badge

Tomorrow we are going to an HIV clinic at a local hospital, and Friday will be a trip to a local secondhand clothing market, so I will update y'all on those excursions after they occur!

On a more personal note, to my friends and family: I thank you all for your support as I continue along this most incredible journey. It has already been enriching and eye opening beyond what I could have ever imagined, and I am grateful for you all in ways that I didn't think could increase, but just over the short duration of this trip thus far, have still done so. Love and hugs to you all!

Bye for now!

Elephants, zebras, and wildebeest, oh my!

This weekend was spent traveling out into the savannah and going on a safari! We all had an absolutely incredible time. But before I get to that, let's talk about the orphanage that we went to on Thursday.

There are so many orphanages in this area (I'm sure it's this way all across Africa), and some of them are very well-run and take good care of the children, while others are not so fortunate and end up having malnourishment or other issues with the children. We visited one of the better run orphanages that is near TCDC to learn about how it is handled and also to spend some time playing with the children. When we got there, the kids and babies were just waking up from their naps, so we slowly started interacting with the sleepy heads as they came out to meet us. They warmed up to us pretty quickly, and we played and played with them for a couple of hours. 

The kids loved playing with us and everything we brought along with us, but they especially loved our cameras and other electronics. 

Some of us had brought toys from the US with us, so we handed those out to the children as we were interacting with them (I had brought tennis balls, and Wesley ended up tossing them back and forth with the two little kids he was playing with for awhile). We also brought soap and a donation to the orphanage, so it was nice to be able to contribute to the children's welfare rather than just visiting for an afternoon.

The orphanage works mainly in conjunction with a hospital next door. The vast majority of the children are taken in after their mothers have died during childbirth. A couple of them were brought into the orphanage when women from a psychiatric ward got pregnant but were unable to take care of their children after giving birth. They are then taken care of at the orphanage until they are 5 or 6 years old, then they are sent to boarding school. 

We were told by our TCDC mama and Dr. Prichard that a different orphanage that is next door to TCDC is not well-run; it struggles with funding and the children are malnourished. So we were lucky to see a more fortunate organization that more successfully caters to its children. One of the girls was even currently going through the adoption process, and she's going home with an American couple this summer. 

The little girl getting adopted (who also walked over and took my glasses off of my face and put them on hers)

Overall, it was a good experience, and quite a lot of fun to play with all of the children for the afternoon. 

The little one who sat with me almost the whole time. He particularly loved my iPod and played with it for quite awhile.

Wesley gave the kids his notebook and they all loved writing in it. He was a hit!

On Friday after class, we left for our safari weekend! It was a fairly long drive through town and savannah and mountains (have I mentioned that Tanzania is very ecologically diverse?) to Karatu, where we stayed for the next two nights. It was our first time really getting out of the city, though, and the drive was consistently beautiful all the way to Karatu. 

One of the many beautiful trees we've seen.

After getting to our hotel in Karatu, we were greeted by hotel staff with fresh juice and an eagerness to help us to our rooms. After putting our bags in our rooms and showers all around (which was a welcome change for those who are staying in homes where a bucket filled with water is the closest they've been to a shower in a week), we had a wonderful dinner at the hotel. We thought we could escape our host families' insistance for us to constantly eat more, but the head chef just took over the job instead. The food was great, though, so nobody complained. After dinner, we all headed back to our rooms and crashed for the night, because we had a nice and early 6:00 am breakfast to look forward to before heading out on our safari in the morning.

The outside of our room at the hotel.

Our room at Eileen's Tree Inn--yeah, we were really roughing it (the first thought that came to my mind when we walked in was "My mom is going to hate me"--she's already jealous of this trip, and I'm sure she wasn't expecting us to be getting spoiled like this, either)

The next morning after breakfast, we all piled back into the three Land Cruisers that were taking us on safari and headed off! Our day took place in Ngorongoro National Park. We were told that Ngorongoro gets its name from the sound that the cow bells make on the herds that belong to the Masai peoples who live in and around the park. 

Our first stop was at Olduvai Gorge. This gets its name from what we call the cisal plant, but the Masai word for it is Oldupai. The reason for the Olduvai/Oldupai discrepancy is that apparently the first person to record the name misspelled it, and that report got sent out, and the misspelled version of the name is what has stuck for most publications. But whichever way you choose to spell it, the gorge is a magnificent sight to behold. It is also full of history--many archaeologists have conducted in depth studies there, including Mary and Louis Leakey, the discoverers of Lucy. It is really an incredible place, and absolutely beautiful, to top it all off.

Jennifer and I at Olduvai Gorge

After this, we went to see the shifting sands, which is a hill of slightly magnetized volcanic sand that retains its shape but moves across the land at a speed of about 17 meters per year. It's just a huge pile of black sand in the middle of a cream-colored sandy region, so it's pretty incredible to see.

After this, we descended into Ngorongoro Crater, where we saw an absolutely incredible array of animals. There were elephants (my personal favorite), giraffes, antelopes, zebras, wildebeest, warthogs, various bird species (including flamingos), lions, hippos, and more! There was never a dull moment. 

Zebras so close we could almost touch them!

Giraffes in the distance.

A sleepy hyena on the side of the road.

The day was full of constant amazement. It was a truly humbling experience. Being surrounded by towering mountains while also being able to see across huge expanses of savannah, all while viewing large herds of just about every type of large mammal that is in the area really reminds you of just how small you really are. It was so wonderful to see so much of this beautiful creation in front of us, and it was a reminder of how blessed I am (well really, this entire trip has been full of reminders; this particular one just came in a different form). I've always believed that there is no place better than nature to view God's work and feel close to Him, and Ngorongoro was certainly no exception. It was incredible and humbling, and I wouldn't trade the experience for anything.

After nearly 12 hours since leaving the hotel, we started our journey back there. Once again, we showered and ate and headed straight for bed, all of us tuckered out from a very long, fulfilling day. We got a wonderful late start the next morning (our latest since arriving in Tanzania--breakfast wasn't until 9:00 am!) and then began our journey back to TCDC. We stopped along the way at a Masai women's co-op to hear their story and buy goods from their shop in order to contribute to the community they were from. 

Some of the Masai women we heard from. They also sang and danced for us (and got Taryn and Alyssa A. to join in at one point).

We stopped one more time on the way home to eat lunch and view another Masai organization. A few people in our group even decided to take a ride on the camels that were there. After this, we all headed back to our respective homestays to relax and rejuvenate before another week of daily classes and excursions.

Our trip this weekend was a beyond incredible experience. There are no words to describe the beauty present in the gorge and the crater, and even pictures do no justice. I will definitely remember this weekend for the rest of my days.

Kwaheri!

Market days

On Tuesday morning, we all woke up to news of the tornado in Moore, Oklahoma. All of us struggled to take in what had happened while also trying to get in touch with friends and family who may have been affected. It was a difficult day, but all of the Tanzanians around us were aware of what had happened (the tornado had been on international news that morning). Several of the TCDC staff, as well as other American student groups who were studying at TCDC, were very kind and offered us condolences and asked about our friends and families back home. It was an interesting contrast  between the Tanzanian approach to tragedy and the typical American one. Tanzanians are very good at compartmentalizing their emotions, and in the face of tragedy, they offer condolences, say a prayer, and go on with their daily lives. It wasn't that they were insensitive to what we were going through when our Swahili teacher told us to focus on class instead of thinking about home, or a member of the TCDC staff said she was sorry about what happened, but that the only thing to do was pray and not let our days be affected. They were just sharing with us their belief that everything is in God's hands, that He is looking out for us and ours, and that personal worry will do nothing to further His agenda. And this was all we could have asked for; just their awareness and prayers were enough.

After class that day, we had a free afternoon. Some people went into Arusha town to work out cell phone issues or other supply needs. The majority of us walked from TCDC into Usa River, which is less than 2 kilometers up the road. Granted, it is a somewhat terrifying 2 km, with cars and boda bodas (motorcycles) zooming past us, only 5 or 6 feet away, but walking is the main mode of transportation for locals when your destination is within 4 or 5 km, and we were only joining the hundreds of others who walk along the road each and every day. 

The pathway you walk on alongside the road.

After getting to Usa River, we walked around the market there for a bit. We saw all of the different things being sold, such as fruits, vegetables, belts, and even very American-looking posters. It was an interesting experience, as we had not been in the busy market setting before. Only a couple of people attempted to buy things, and that was just because one of them was in desperate need of a belt. The rest of us walked around the market area until deciding to head back towards TCDC, making a stop at the coffee shop along the way. Those of us who have homestays within TCDC are a little more flexible about when we have to be back at the compound, so my roommate and I stayed at the shop for a little while after most people had left, just laying around. 

Literally, just laying around.

I actually ended up overhearing a group of three people at the shop speaking German (as it turns out, the Lutheran center for disabled people where the coffee shop is located is funded in large part by the German Lutheran church, so there are frequently Germans there), and I went over and had a great conversation with them about what each of us was doing in Usa and where we were from. I never imagined that I'd come to Africa and get to speak German! It was great, though, and it made me feel much better about my foreign language abilities after being frustrated with my lack of Swahili knowledge over the past few days.

The next day, Wednesday, was market day. Talk about an overwhelming experience...our Swahili teacher had given us each 2000 shillings in class that day (equivalent to just over $1). She instructed us to go to the market and barter for one type of fruit and one type of vegetable, and to bring them back to the center so the cafeteria could use them in the next couple of days. Needless to say, this bargaining was to be done all in Swahili. So, with three days of Swahili under our belts and just 5 full days in the country at all, we were sent out into Tengera Market to purchase our goods. 

One small section of Tengera Market--it was spread over a huge area.

I think we were all pleasantly surprised with how successful we were at bartering. My roommate and I were able to get 3 eggplants, 5 oranges, 15 carrots, and 6 limes, all for about $2. Turns out that baptism by fire may be an effective learning method when it comes to Swahili.

Jennifer and I with our goods--I also bought some fabric to make into a skirt.

There was one interesting experience at the market. Our professors had warned us about the tendency of Tanzanian men to be very forward and to tell women they love them, and sometimes even throw a marriage proposal out in the air. Jennifer and I were walking past a group of men who, after shaking our hands, refused to let go. I had one holding my hand and examining my bracelets while another one was standing across from me, saying "I love you so much. I love you." Then one asked me if I had a husband. No matter what the truth is, the answer to this question is ALWAYS yes. So I quickly said yes, and they all dropped my hands and looked very sad as we walked away. It was an entertaining, if somewhat odd, experience that I hopefully won't have to go through again. But if I do, all they need to know is that I have a "husband" back in America waiting for me!

So overall, the market experience was a good one, and I know that the next time we make it to one, I'll be a lot more comfortable with the atmosphere and hopefully a lot more proficient in Swahili, as well.

We're going to an orphanage this afternoon, so we're all looking forward to that! More to come later!

Kwaheri!

Mambo Monday

Mambo!

(Here's where you would respond with "poa!" or "safi!" or "fresh!")

So many times a day we hear these words, as Tanzanians greet us on the street, in town, or around the TCDC campus. Everyone is so friendly, and everyone is always greeting each other and showing respect. It's such a welcoming environment to be in. It's nice knowing that the vast majority of people we see here are happy to have us as visitors to their country, and they all do such a wonderful job of making us feel welcome!

Yesterday, we all moved into our homestays! Mid-afternoon, the families all came to TCDC, where we met up before going home with them. Some of the group had already met their parents before that day, because they had interacted with us at TCDC before (most of the homestay families are TCDC employees). There are four pairs of students, myself and Jennifer included, whose families actually live within the TCDC compound. This makes for a very easy commute in the mornings! The rest of the pairs live in or around Arusha town, so they have longer commutes on a daily basis, but they'll also see more exciting things on their way to the compound. Overall, I think everybody is happy with where they are with their homestays! Jennifer and I are with a lovely lady who everyone calls Mama G and her niece, Amy. They're both nice people...and wonderful cooks. Our first meal in the house was probably one of the most delicious I've ever had, and I ate until I was stuffed! This family may certainly attain their goal of making me gain weight while I'm here. Dr. Prichard did inform us today on communicating to our families that we have had enough to eat. She told us, "What we do need to talk about is how to say no to food, so I don't have to roll you all out of here." For the record, "Nimeshiba" means I am full/satisfied, and "Nitananepa" means I am going to get fat (though I suspect the latter may only elicit a further response of "Good!"). What I will never say "Nimeshiba" to, however, is avocado juice. Oh my goodness, it is the most delicious drink; we've had it at every meal so far and we keep asking for more! Avocados are so plentiful around here; there is even an avocado tree in our backyard! Apparently the resident monkeys at TCDC cause quite a ruckus in the house sometimes, dropping avocados down on the roof. This hasn't happened yet, though. I am definitely enjoying being at our homestay, and Mama G has made it very easy to feel at home already!

Jennifer & I with Mama G.

One thing we talked about during our cultural orientation on Sunday was the concept that time is plenty here, and this is something that I have already found to be very true. The first afternoon and evening of being in our home, we spent a long time just sitting and chatting with Mama G (Amy doesn't really speak English, so our communication is pretty limited at this point. Hopefully this will change as we keep taking our Swahili lessons!). During this time, I never found myself checking my watch or feeling as if I had somewhere else to be, which is something that I very commonly do in the U.S. I have yet to feel rushed at any point since arriving here, yet we still manage to fit so much into each day. I'm hoping to take some of the Tanzanian "time is plenty" philosophy back home with me, because I'm finding it to be a much less stressful way of life!

The outside of our house

Today, Monday May 20, we took our first excursion to a local NGO. We visited the United African Alliance Community Center (UAACC), just outside of Usa River. This center was founded by a pair of former members of the Black Panther Party in the US. The BPP was a political organization in the 1960s, during the Civil Rights era, who became very outspoken against police brutality and unjust arrests, which were occurring particularly against African Americans. Aside from protesting the practiced discrimination against African Americans, the BPP also began programs to help provide to the underprivileged where they believed the government was not intervening as it should. For example, the Kansas City branch, where the founders of the UAACC were located, provided breakfast for over 700 children each morning before school.

These founders (who now call themselves Brother Pete and Mama C), find themselves in Tanzania now because after charges were brought against Brother Pete within the US for a crime that would have given him approximately a 15 year prison sentence (I believe it was for carrying weapons across state borders), he decided to leave the country instead. They started living in Algeria because there was an active branch of the BPP there, but after two years, they were drawn to Tanzania because of persuasion from friends and because they were attracted to the country's socialist government structure. They were expecting to be able to move back to the states after maybe five years, but this was not the case, and they have remained in exile ever since. They've been in Tanzania for over 40 years now, and only Mama C has gone back to the states, and this was just once.

After getting to the center, we were able to walk around and see all of the different areas of it. There are 21 children who live there full time. Many of them are orphans, but some are from families who were unable to provide for them, so they brought them to the UAACC. It is good for the children because instead of running away or living on the streets, they are able to have a place to sleep and food to eat. We saw their living quarters, an art studio, a recording studio, a computer facility, and a shop where the students who are learning to see can sell their creations. Also, outside of the facility gates, there was a tap that runs clean water that anybody is welcome to draw from. So, the facility doesn't just benefit those within it--it caters to the larger community, as well. Everything about UAACC was very impressive!

Outside of the UAACC gates

Since Brother Pete and Mama C are from Kansas City, the first thing that he said to us was "Am I to understand you're from Oklahoma? So when I say y'all, y'all understand." It was a funny change from the very formal English that we've heard from the native Swahili speakers we've been interacting with up to this point. After our tour around the center, we listened to Mama G's brief summary of the history of their involvement with the BPP and subsequent exile from the US. She was great to listen to; she has such a wonderful outlook on life (some might call it hippie). Speaking of living at the UAACC, she said that there is "never a dull moment. I love that." With 21 full time children and about 45 total coming to the center for English and computer classes, I don't doubt her one bit!

Mama C & friend

Speaking of English classes, before we left the center, we all stopped in at an ongoing class. We taught the students how to sing row, row, row your boat, which they mastered right off the bat. Then we taught them head, shoulders, knees and toes. After that, they turned it around on us and turned the song into Swahili! They also taught us a fun singing, clapping, and dancing game that had me laughing so hard my sides hurt by the end of it. I don't remember the Swahili names of all of the body parts we learned today, or the words from the game we played, but singing, laughing, and dancing with those kids is something I will never forget. 

Our trip to UAACC had an impact on all of us. I've never been to a place like this before, and it was really neat to see the positive impact that its presence has had on the children and community that it serves. And I don't care what your political beliefs are (I mean, I'm no socialist), there is no denying that these people are full of love and truly care about doing good for the people around them, and this was incredible to see.

I think Mama C said it best when she told us, "We have different skin colors, we come from different places, but we all want the same thing in life: peace and happiness and love...and some good food."

Kwaheri, friends.

Adventure is imminent

We officially arrived in Tanzania at about 8:00 last night (about 27 hours after departing from OKC)! After such a long trip, with stops in various airports around the world, it was hard to believe at first that we had actually, finally made it! As soon as I stepped off of the plane onto African soil, I was giddy with excitement. It truly is such an amazing feeling--knowing that adventure is imminent.

Getting off of the plane at Kilimanjaro airport

After getting through customs, which was a breeze, we were met at the airport by Dr. Prichard and Yusta, our "mom" (and course coordinator) from TCDC. We all rode on a bus to the compound, struggling to keep our eyes open but still filled with excitement. After getting to the compound, we had dinner waiting for us, then a hot shower, and then sleep (on an actual, horizontal bed--after so many hours of attempted and failed sleep on planes, this felt like heaven).

Our first Tanzanian dinner! Mutton, potatoes, and carrot soup for me (there's always a wide selection at the cafeteria).

Beds with mosquito nets are the norm around here.

This morning (Saturday, May 18), we had a good breakfast at the cafeteria at around 7:30--mine consisted of cereal, fresh watermelon, a croissant, and fresh passion fruit juice. After breakfast, we started the first of our two-day orientation course, discussing topics such as our health and safety, Tanzanian culture, and what to expect when we move in with our host families tomorrow. One wonderful thing about classes here is that we will always get a tea break about halfway through, and today was no exception! 

Things I learned in class today: If your host family tells you you're getting fat, it's a compliment. Tanzanians are incredibly hospitable, and apparently feeding guests, as well as family, is a favorite activity. So while this "compliment" may be a little hard to swallow if it comes my way during the next few weeks, I'll just try to keep in mind that this must just mean I've really been enjoying the meals my family has prepared for me (and they'll love knowing that, too)!

Our mwalimu (teacher), Steven, spoke a lot about family today. It was really neat to hear about how close-knit everyone is here, and how even non-biological friends can be considered family. He told us that if you do not have guests (family is common, but friends are also welcome) just show up at your house at some point during the week to join you for dinner, then there is something wrong with you. Invitations from the family, or a notification from the guests who will be joining, is not necessary--Tanzanians always make more food than is necessary for the family living in the house in order to be able to accommodate unexpected guests, and if there is still not enough, they don't have a problem with just heading back into the kitchen! I think my favorite thing that Steven said about family today was, "I am because they are." This perfectly encapsulates how Tanzanians view personal relationships, and I find this viewpoint absolutely wonderful. I'm very excited to become a part, however temporary, of a family here.

After class and lunch, we all piled back into the bus and went into Arusha town for the afternoon in order to withdraw Tanzanian money for the first time and to pick up whatever supplies we may need from the supermarket, Shoprite, there.

Tanzanian shillings--about 1600 shillings per American dollar. And cool designs on the bills!

All I needed was soap, so after I acquired that, my roommate Jennifer and I went over to a little coffee shop across the way and had some iced lattes, just like back in the states! After this, we all got back on the bus and came to TCDC for the evening. The ride to and from Arusha was a pretty incredible experience. When we arrived last night, it was already pitch black outside, so during the ride to the compound, we didn't have to ability to see anything but the headlights of passing cars. Today, we could see everything: cows grazing on the side of the road, men and women carrying goods to and from their destinations, children playing jump rope in front of houses and businesses, and so much more. I was astounded by how much was going on! Everybody seemed to be outside doing one thing or another, whether it be work or play. It was a nice contrast to life in America, where we all use our cars to reach our destinations and socialization occurs mainly in restaurants and other indoor locations, rather than the constant outside mingling that we witnessed. And the surrounding landscape is probably the most beautiful thing I have ever seen, and I have seen a lot of beautiful places. Everything is so lush and green, the trees are so tall, and the flowers are colorful. 

Typical roadside on the way to Arusha

Mt. Kilimanjaro in the distance

Whole plots of land are not plowed in order to construct a building--development and wilderness live side by side in a way I have never seen before...and I love it more than I could describe.

More roadside

Group of children traveling on the side of the road

Today has been an eye-opening experience. I feel like I've seen and learned so much already, and it's only our first day! I can't wait to see what the rest of the trip brings. But now, we are off to dinner, so kwaheri until later!

Pre-Tanzania

Hi everyone,

I wanted to send y'all a quick summary of what I'll be doing day-to-day while I'm in Tanzania since I probably won't be very good about staying in touch while I'm over there.

We arrive into the airport in Tanzania at 7:45 pm on Friday, May 17th. We go to the institution  where we'll be taking classes while in Usa River (a smaller town just to the east of Arusha) to stay that night (it's called TCDC--Training Centre for Development Cooperation). 

Usa River location

TCDC building

TCDC Cafeteria

The next day, Saturday, will be full of orientation and getting established in Usa, and we'll spend one more night at the TCDC compound. On Sunday, we continue with the orientation program and move into our homestays (my roommate is a graduate student named Jennifer).

Homestay Example

From Monday, May 20th until Friday, May 24th, we'll have a week of regular classes, with Kiswahili lessons and our "History of Helping" class in the mornings and local excursions in the afternoons. 

Usa River Market, location of some of our local excursions

Friday afternoon, we depart for our weekend safari in the Serengeti, including descending into Ngorogoro Crater and the Olduvai Gorge. We'll spend Friday and Saturday nights in Karatu (located west of Arusha).

Ngorogoro Crater

http://www.amani-tours.com/attractions/ngorongoro_crater

Olduvai Gorge

http://xpeditiononline.com/09olduvai.html

Tanzania Serengeti

http://in2eastafrica.net/serengeti-national-park-2/

We'll return from the safari to our homestays on Sunday, May 26th. The following week, May 27th-May 31st, we'll be back in Usa with classes in the morning and excursions in the afternoon again.  Saturday, June 1st, will be a free day for us to pack and prepare for our trip to Dar es Salaam and the island of Zanzibar.

On Sunday, June 2nd, we travel by bus to Dar. We spend the next day sight seeing in Dar, including going to the U.S. Embassy and the University of Dar es Salaam. 

Dar location

Dar es Salaam

On Tuesday morning, we take a ferry from Dar to Stone Town, Zanzibar.  Once arriving there, we'll take a tour of the city and in the evening, we'll watch a Taraab performance before dinner.  Taraab is a music genre that is popular in East Africa (it comes from an Arabic word that means "having joy with music").

Click here to listen to an example of Taraab.

Stone Town location

Stone Town, Zanzibar

The next day (Wednesday, June 5th), we visit a slave market and what was the home of Tippu Tip, a local slave trader in the late 1800s.  We will also visit the local non-profit Sasik. Sasik is a very successful women's co-op that creates furnishing covers and wall hangings based on Arabic designs, enabling women to earn an income and provide for their children, where they were not previously able to do so. 

Home of Tippu Tip

http://www.trekearth.com/gallery/Africa/Tanzania/East/Zanzibar/Stone_Town/photo1200581.htm

Sasik shop in Stone Town

https://www.facebook.com/pages/Sasik-ZANZIBAR/140328546062589

That night, we'll get to go on a Dhow (type of sailing boat) tour at sunset.

Sunset Dhow Tour

http://www.climbkili.com/safari-etc/zanzibar/

Over the next two days, we do further excursions around the area of Stone Town, including a visit to another women's co-op in Kidoti.  The night of Friday, June 7th, we'll travel over to the east side of the island and will stay on Paje Beach at Paje Beach Bungalows.  The next day, we travel from the beach into Jozani Forest. We'll spend Saturday night in the bungalows, as well.

Paje Beach

Paje Beach Bungalows

Jozani Forest

A colobus monkey in Jozani Forest

On Sunday, June 9th, we travel by ferry back to Dar. We'll go to the Tanzanian National Museum that afternoon and stay one more night in Dar before heading back to Usa River for the remainder of the trip.  Once we get back to Usa on Monday, June 10th, we have a final week of morning classes and afternoon excursions, with nights in our homestays.  On Saturday, June 15th, we have a send-off party with our homestay families at TCDC, and we spend our last night in Tanzania at the TCDC compound.

Sunday, June 16th is our last day in Tanzania, and we'll be at TCDC until late afternoon/early evening, when we get transported back to the airport. We begin our long series of flights back to the U.S. at 8:40 pm. After stops in Amsterdam and Minneapolis, we will (hopefully) finally touch down in OKC shortly  before 10:00 pm on Monday, June 17th.

I'll do my best to stay in touch while I'm gone.  There should be wifi at TCDC (we've been told it is frequently out of service, however), and I will post to this blog or to facebook or send out emails when I get the chance.  I'll be thinking of y'all while I'm gone and will be looking forward to catching up with everyone once I return!

Kwa heri ya kuonana! (Goodbye until we meet again)